igor you will be remebered for a long time my friend.
4 days in a row of solid groundswell and offshore winds all morning. weeeeeeoooooooo it may not have been the biggest or gnarliest or even the best but all i know is that if you had some time and a little bit of luck to find your way into some unsuspecting places in our ocean the past few days, there were some sessions to be had that can only be descriped as 'magical'.
riding on a bum ankle has given me a new appreciation on surfing - i am so stoked just to catch a nice wave, race through some sections and get back out there to hoot my friends and family into the next one. who cares if i cant do any moves - that is irrelevant - just being there is the whole reason we get back in the water time after time. just being able to catch a wave and ride it through in any manner is a blessing in itself. catching that fleeting moment ties us together. so ........... its still good right now! go catch a wave and give a hoot for the next one! wwwwwwweeeeeeeooooooooooo