Tuesday, August 30, 2011
Sunday, August 28, 2011
Friday, August 26, 2011
Well Irene you totally surpassed the hype this evening with some of the biggest clean surf I have ever seen in SouthCarolina. The washout lived up to its name once again and washed over the dunes all over the road - take that beach re-nourishment! It was like a spectator sport today as ALL the crosswalks were stuffed with people whose cheers for valiant rides and bone crunching wipeouts could be heard in the lineup. Our prayers are with our friends and families in North Carolina tonight - BE SAFE!
(check out more shots at follyhood.blogspot.com follysurf.blogspot.com & thomasbrothersblog.com))
Tuesday, August 23, 2011
I thought you'd appreciate to hear that my brother in-law rode the fish you shaped me yesterday and it rekindled his stoke for surfing. He moved away from the shore several years ago and has had an on again off again relationship with surfing ever since. Yesterday he told me he's back. Thought you'd enjoy that story. See you out there this week
Wednesday, August 17, 2011
Monday, August 15, 2011
Thursday, August 11, 2011
I am living my big wave stoke through some bros who are charging serious waves in Central America on some boards that I built - I may not be charging but at least my boards are!
I did the unthinkable and possibly surfed chandlers last wave. I didn't think it was possible but I buckled him at outer reef pulling into the 2nd section barrel which went bone dry slamming the two of us into a dry slab of slate rock. Somehow I escaped relatively unscathed besides a solid hipper and minor abrasions, and i thought chandler would be ok too... until the set behind was even more monstrous and upon my scramble out if its grasp it slammed us again obliterating chandler into two and stripping glass all the way to the fins, making fixing it not really possible. I feel worse than Ive ever felt for breaking a board both because I was really getting a feel for those heavy footed bottom turns and sheer hellfire speed in the tube, and obviously for sending a special board of yours into boardie heaven. I'll be back soon now that im board less and broke needing to get back to real world .... hasta luegos muchacho. -siempunk