I am living my big wave stoke through some bros who are charging serious waves in Central America on some boards that I built - I may not be charging but at least my boards are!
I did the unthinkable and possibly surfed chandlers last wave. I didn't think it was possible but I buckled him at outer reef pulling into the 2nd section barrel which went bone dry slamming the two of us into a dry slab of slate rock. Somehow I escaped relatively unscathed besides a solid hipper and minor abrasions, and i thought chandler would be ok too... until the set behind was even more monstrous and upon my scramble out if its grasp it slammed us again obliterating chandler into two and stripping glass all the way to the fins, making fixing it not really possible. I feel worse than Ive ever felt for breaking a board both because I was really getting a feel for those heavy footed bottom turns and sheer hellfire speed in the tube, and obviously for sending a special board of yours into boardie heaven. I'll be back soon now that im board less and broke needing to get back to real world .... hasta luegos muchacho. -siempunk